Here’s a complete Eye makeup for Deep set Eyes step by step tutorial with Pro tips from a Makeup Artist with Deep-set Hooded eyes.
Firstly, let’s clarify the difference between hooded or droopy eyelids and Deep-set eyes.
Because I have both, and they are usually combined, however, they are not the same.
Here’s the Deep-set eyes meaning.
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What are Deep set eyes?
The Deep set eyes are further back than the brow bone when you look at one side of the face, and they can be hooded, almond, or any eye shape at the same time. They are determined by the deepness of the eyes compared to the rest of the face and usually have a prominent brow bone.
Deep-set eyes are a type of eyes and not a feature of the eyelids. It’s all about the eye’s deepness when you have a profile angle and not about the space between the brow bone and the eyes or eyelids.
You can have round eyes and deep-set eyes; you can have almond eyes and deep-set eyes, or like in my case, I have Deep-set Hooded eyes. Usually, monolids, don’t have deep-set eyes.
Usually, Deep-set eyes are accompanied by a prominent brow bone and a larger crease. Let me show you an image that explains this better.
And in this video below, you can see different types of deep set eyes.
How do you make deep set eyes pop?
The best way to make deep set eyes pop is by using the theory of color on the eye makeup by applying darker shades on the crease and some of the brow bone and brighter shades on the mobile eyelid.
There are some other CRUCIAL tips and tricks to make any deep set eyes pop and look beautiful that I will share with you in the Step by step tutorial below.
How to make deep set eyes look bigger (TUTORIAL)
Step 1. Conceal any Darkness
We want to conceal properly any dark shades that some deep set eyes have naturally around the eyes and cause a more deep illusion.
If you have dark under eyes, apply an under eye concealer on with a salmon undertone.
In case you have very deep dark under eyes, try an orange concealer better.
This step is KEY for deep set eyes because we want to conceal any darkness around the eyes, and without color correction (no matter how much full coverage concealer you use on any shade), the dark undertone will be there.
An excellent peachy concealer to conceal dark under eyes is this one.
Step 2. Let’s Bright those Under eyes
Now that we conceal the dark undertones, we want to make it brighter so we can create an illusion of pushing that area to the front.
A mistake will be, just applying concealer on the under eyes and starting with the rest of the eye makeup.
What we want to do is take another lighter concealer than our foundation and apply a small amount on the under eyes and inner corner of the eye.
Taking it to the eyelids as well to make all the around eyes area brighter with an even tone.
NOTE: Don’t forget the inner corner of the eyes next to the nose. This area has to be bright and some deep set eyes (like me) tend to have that area darker than the rest.
For this tutorial, I’m using the Shape tape Concealer in this shade that I strongly recommend to anyone with deep dark circles and need Full coverage with a lightweight formula that prevents creasing under the eyes!
I was kind of skeptical about trying it, but ONCE this concealer touches my under eyes, I understand why everyone loved it!
Related Eye makeup post: 13 Easy ways to Stop concealer from creasing under eyes (with pictures)
Step 3. The “Fake Crease” Technique
Next, apply the “fake crease” technique. In case you don’t know this method, take a look at my Hooded eyes tutorial post and then come back here to continue reading the post.
Deep set eyes tend to have a larger crease (because of the deepness and the natural shape of the brow bone) and we don’t want to follow that crease to start with the eyeshadow.
I have hooded eyes, which means I have extra skin on the brow bone area that is not letting my mobile eyelid to show when I have my eyes open. (Super common on mature eyes)
And I don’t want to follow my natural deep set eyes crease that will take me to apply eyeshadow in a way that my eyes will look downturned.
So here’s when the “FAKE CREASE” method applies.
Imagine the perfect crease with a slightly upturned direction and follow that when you are applying your crease shade.
I’m using a warmer light brown shade with a small fluffy brush and following my fake crease, I’m blending with left and right motions. When I know that my brush doesn’t have too much color I take it to the outer corner of my eyes in a straight line.
Like in the image below.
Open and close your eyes to make sure you are blending the shade in upwards and straight direction to your hair line. We want to blend the color a little bit out of the eyelids.
Step 4. Deepen the right areas
Now that we created the new crease, we want to blend it well and deeper even more with a darker shade than the last brown.
I’m using a medium brown shade with a pencil eyeshadow brush.
With deep set eyes, we want to “hide” or create the illusion of backward in some part of the brow bone. Without taking the dark shades to the inner corner of the eyes.
Take a precise pencil brush and place the medium tone just above the natural crease, in the middle of the “fake crease” that we created.
Come back to your small blending brush and blend the two shades well in an upwards direction.
When you know that your brush has less or minimum color, take it to the outer corner of your eye in a straight direction.
We want to touch a little bit of the brow bone to push it back, however, we want to leave enough space between that shade and the brows to highlight that area.
Step 5. Mobile Eyelid
The theory of colors says that lighter shades bring light and luminosity to that area creating the illusion of a more prominent, bigger area.
So in the mobile eyelid, I’m applying a shimmer beige eyeshadow starting from the inner corner and covering all the mobile eyelids following the “fake crease”.
That means that I’m taking this lighter shade high enough to cover some of my natural crease.
In the “wrong” eye, I’m applying a dark wine shade all over the mobile eye following my natural crease.
Does this mean that we can’t do smokey eyes or apply dark shades on the mobile eyelid for deep set eyes?
NO! We can rock a beautiful Smokey eye (I show you how in this Easy Brown Smokey eye tutorial) and apply any shade on the mobile eyelids, but this specific Eyeshadow look will enhance and make deep set eyes pop and look bigger.
And you can see the difference in both eyes.
BUT WAIT! I don’t always want to look “natural”. How can I add a pop of color for Deep set eyes?
An easy way is by applying the color on the outer corner in a way that it blends together with the lighter shade on the mobile eyelid.
And that’s how I added the same dark wine shade of the wrong eye, on the “right” eye and without making my Hooded deep set eye look deeper.
Step 6. Eyeliner Technique for deep Set Eyes
Check my Guide on How to Apply Eyeliner for Hooded Eyes where I explain with details and pictures step by step the best and easiest way to apply eyeliner for Hooded eyes (that also applies for deep set eyes) and the Only type of Eyeliner that I recommend.
Then come back to this post and keep reading this tutorial.
Should deep set eyes wear eyeliner?
The Deep set Eyes, like any other type of eye, can wear eyeliner but with specific strategies to make them pop and not look even deeper. The best practice for deep set eyes is always applying a thin eyeliner on the lash line and avoid black eyeliner on the waterline.
By applying eyeliner on the top of the eyes we are shaping our natural eye however, we don’t want to go for thicker eyeliner that takes part of the mobile eyelid because we will be making the illusion of even deeper eyes.
How do you apply eyeliner to small deep set eyes?
I’m going to break it down in a Do’s and Don’ts for the Perfect Eyeliner on Deep set eyes.
-Apply a thin eyeliner line just above the lash line, starting to make it a little bit thicker on the middle of the eye to the outer corner direction
-Create a thin winged line in an upwards direction (Check the full tutorial on the easiest way to do winged eyeliner here)
-Apply beige/white pencil eyeliner on the waterline
-Apply the first light/medium transition shade on the lower lash line just to make harmony around the eyes.
-Apply a THICK eyeliner from the inner corner to the outer corner
-Thick winged eyeliner or not winged eyeliner (Making the eye looking rounder and more deep set)
-Apply black pencil eyeliner on the waterline and the lower lash line.
We want more light and brighter shades on the eyes than make it look dark, butlike everything in makeup, these tips depend on the occasion and mood for that eye makeup, when I’m on a Dark mood I apply black on the waterline, and it’s just FINE.
Step 7. The Brown Bone
Yes! We want to highlight the brow bone but in the right way.
How is this? Applying a matte or slightly shimmery beige eyeshadow with a precise small brush just below the brow without touching much of the brow bone area.
NOTE: We don’t want to use the same highlighter that we use regularly to avoid outstand even more this area.
Also, you can highlight your inner corner of the eyes with the same or opt for a more shimmer shade.
Next, you can get creative and do something different to make your eye look unique, like adding glitter on the mobile eyelids.
I’m seeking a natural eyeshadow and I will leave it that way.
I loved how this eye makeup for hooded eyes looks without false eyelashes but if you are more in the mood, apply false eyelashes.
I recommend this clear strip false eyelashes that don’t darken the eye look too much, to keep this brightness and balance the deepness of the eyes.
Final thoughts on eye makeup for deep set eyes
This is the final result of this Eyeshadow tutorial for Deep set eyes and the difference between both eyes.
Remember that all starts from the concealer application and all is based on the theory of color for Makeup. Once you practice and master this technique you can play around with the colors and get the ability to turn any Eye makeup look into Deep-set eyes friendly look.
I hope you liked this Eye Makeup for Deep-set eyes tutorial, if so, don’t forget to pin it for later and share it with others.
Also, comment below on what tip you liked the most that you haven’t tried before? OR what tips and tricks you currently use and I missed in this post?
I’d love to hear from you.
Related Makeup for beginners Posts:
- Best Eyeshadow Tips and tricks for Brown eyes
- The Ultimate False Eyelashes tutorial for beginners (with pictures)
- How to determine your perfect concealer shade in minutes!
- The Ultimate Eyeliner Guide for Beginners
- The Complete List of Makeup Brushes for beginners (and their uses)